He has become a byword in the town of Sagada, Mountain Province, this European baptized Philippe who now goes by his adopted name Aklay.
Every Friday morning, he bakes. By noon an array of warm bread is ready on his open shelves (no sanitary glass cases here). You can have your pick of multi-grain, caraway, chocolate bread and even loaves studded with almond nuts. Put five of his oatmeal cookies in a brown bag, and the bag’s bottom gets torn. That’s how heavy and packed each cookie is.
What’s nice about the man is you can drown in his Aidan Quinn eyes. And on Fridays he does smell yummy from all that kneading and baking.
His town mates find him a bit of a conundrum. ’Tis said that he owns a map of Sagada like no other, that he has uncovered old trails, that his visa may have expired and needs renewal. When I ask him if these speculations about him are true, he points to a long, detailed, hand-printed map the size of a huge Chinese scroll. Not intimidated by tall wild grasses, he hacks his way through not-so-frequented areas to discover more of Sagada and its unknown but fabulous views.
On this map, a work in progress, he has painted some birds slowly becoming extinct in this part of the Cordillera like the peregrine falcon. This big bird is the last in the food chain: the earthworms eat leaves heavily sprayed with pesticides, the smaller birds eat the worms, the falcon hunts and eats the smaller birds. Aklay blames all that pesticide for killing off these birds of prey.
As for his being wanted by the immigration authorities, he shrugs and requests that I take photos, using teacher Fara Manuel’s camera, of all parts of his house, but I must leave him out of each picture.
A striking thing hanging from one of his kitchen hooks is an old pasiking (backpack). Its twin is safely housed at the Bontoc Museum.
Drop in on a Friday. And if the baker is in the mood, you can watch him toss a tray here, lay loaves of bread gently as though they’re fragile infants on a spot there, all to the beat of French cabaret music.
1 comment:
the gingerbread cookie topped with chocolate was also baked by him? sooo yummy!
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